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72SuperBug

VW Enthusiast
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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #1 
hey guys i bought a 72 and now im wondering even tho it looks good.... ive noticed alot of soft spots on the body.  I keep telling myself its all repairable.....(one channel for sure....  both rear fenders on the back side.... infront of the fenders a little ....pans look good i think  and the frame head is rusted out) but does there come a time when it isnt anymore??? Its been way to cold up here to start messing with it but am looking forward to march and april for when the snow is gone.....so honestly how bad could it really be??? also i need to redo the brakes as some dummy broke off all the bleeder screws (not me) and i dont know maybe replace the regulator as i polarized the gen and it didnt seem to fix the issue........ok heres a second question if u separate the generator and polarize it,  is it normal to have swinging amps as the engine revs up and down??  maybe the generator is gone too and i should just put a alternator on instead??

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flash

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Posts: 873
Reply with quote  #2 
For all the movey I have seen  guys put into fixing the rust they could have come out here to Arizona and bought one with less headaches.  By the way it's going to be a sunny 72 degrees here in Tucson today.
Good luck with your project.

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Loren R. Knapp
In The Hot Sonoran Desert of Arizona - 73 Super Beetle "The Blues."
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72SuperBug

VW Enthusiast
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Reply with quote  #3 
owwwww  think that was sun burn  lol  oh well cant control mother nature

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NoH2O

VW Expert
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Posts: 565
Reply with quote  #4 
72 Superbug, I too live in the rustbelt and know too well the pains of dealing with rusty cars. Sounds to me you have quite a lot of issues with your project. For me it boils down to a couple of factors. One, is this 72 your dream car, or has some kind of sentimental value? Will it be worth all of the money you have to put into it when the project is done? Granted a lot of cars aren't worth what you have in them when you finish but a 51 will have more value down the road versus a 72 or other late model. Sounds to me like you have some serious work ahead of you. If the framehead and at least one heater channel is gone, you're looking at some pretty extensive work. If you can do all of the work yourself, youe one step ahead, but if you've not done heater channels or epecially a framehead, you're probably losing money as we speak. You could look for a rolling chasis with good channels and swap bodies. It may be cheaper in the long run. I'm not an early car snob, in fact I've seen cars of all vintage that I've loved, but at the end of the day it comes down to what the car is worth to you. It may be easier to part out what's there to someone who can use the original parts, to partly fund a different project. There are a ton of these cars out there still. Personally I'd pass on this one and look for one with less issues. Fenders, doors, and body issues are easier and less costly than frame and chasis issues. Just my opinion. It's whatever you want at the end of the day that matters. Anything can be fixed. Parts are still plentiful for 70's era bugs.

BTW, 19deg. today, 6inches of snow on the ground and calling for another 6-9 by tonight.

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'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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72SuperBug

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #5 

Well I definetly hear ya...I had orrigionaly figgured I can replace the old fenders with new ones for less than 200 each... The aprons for 150 each then I thought just sandb last it lift the body off and repair the channel for 120. I got the shop space and the tools just never done it before. Its the head that worries me I can get a new one but will it be a nightmare to do it ?? Does it have to be laser aligned correct??? Yikes??!! I am fairly mechanicaly inclined and I do have the time and the space on my side. My shop is over 7500 sq ft. I just hate turning the heat on at minus 40. Whatcha think will the head be that bad? D
Well I definetly hear ya...I had orrigionaly figgured I can replace the old fenders with new ones for less than 200 each... The aprons for 150 each then I thought just sandb last it lift the body off and repair the channel for 120. I got the shop space and the tools just never done it before. Its the head that worries me I can get a new one but will it be a nightmare to do it ?? Does it have to be laser aligned correct??? Yikes??!! I am fairly mechanicaly inclined and I do have the time and the space on my side. My shop is over 7500 sq ft. I just hate turning the heat on at minus 40. Whatcha think will the head be that bad? D. .

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NoH2O

VW Expert
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Posts: 565
Reply with quote  #6 
7500 sq. ft.??? Well that's just not fair. I recently finished my new building but it's well under 1000. The fenders are easy. The apron, framehead and channels are the ones that need to be done correctly or you'll have doors and hoods that won't line up right. Not to mention what a crooked framehead can cause. If you've got the skills and tools, I say go for it. Do your homework and find some type of jig for setting up the framehead. Same goes with the heat channel. Numerous folks have taken on the heat channels with good results. I've read several articles on the different ways to line everything right. Not for the faint of heart but not impossible by any means. I say go for it. You should keep a pictorial diary of your progress over on the "In progress' forum. I'd be interested in seeing the framehead work myself.

Good Luck!
Steve

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'63 Ragtop
'56 Ragtop
'78 Riviera camper


"..at least I'm enjoyin' the ride"
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olspeed

VW Know-it-all
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Posts: 507
Reply with quote  #7 
Wow 7500 sq.ft you ought to be able to work on your car and all the neighbors too and still hold the grand ball in there . Mine is only a little over 2000 sq.ft (at least it's bigger than the wife's house) and I still have room for when the neighbors bring their projects over. As for the work your are planning to do... If you have the tools, are mechanically inclined and don't mind spending the time you should have really no problems but, on the frame head... don't even try it unless you make some gigs first to hold everything in place as even a minute amount of mis-adjustment and the car will not drive worth a darn. The jig that I am familiar with was for a standard Bug and had a bar that went in to the lower tube mount and bolted there and then had supports to the 4 bolts (2 on each side) where the firewall bolts to the pan. It was a home made thing but it worked and I think it would not be hard to make one for a super. As for heat well... while we didn't have as many weeks of -40f this year as last year I still have no problems with my waste oil heater keeping the shop warm. See the link below
http://www.journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me11.html
The only change that I made was for the burner. At the time I made the stove it was harder to find the piece of aluminum than it was to use the top part of a "CAT" 399 (6 1/4" bore 16 cylinder diesel) piston, I cut it off right below the top ring groove and the thing works like a champ. Anyway if you are looking to heat that Grand Palace of yours you might consider one of these,(only got $35.00 us in mine) but you might have to add a fan to move the air a bit.
Olspeed

 



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66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
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68autobug

VW Guru
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Posts: 1,907
Reply with quote  #8 
Yes,
that sounds like a lot of work to Me..
and Yikes, that is some serious car space...  lol

and another thing to heat it...
I don't know of any heated workshops in Australia...
well, most have heaters but they don't heat the whole building
and most are Not really sealed...
so, Hot in the summer , and cold in the winter... lol

then again We don't get temperatures under -5C in winter..
and its usually overnight and early morning...

although it does feel cold, especially in the mornings and at night...  I think its what you get used to..

I cannot imagine any temperatures below -5C....  lol

cheers

LEE

PS: Winter is around the corner in Australia...




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