Registered: 1257461958 Posts: 6
Reply with quote #1
Ok car came with a 34 pict 3 carb and an 009 distributor. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned every port and hole I could find on it. I didnt over tighten the jets. Replaced wires, plugs, dist, etc. I set the fast "idle" per every instruction i have found which was either back it out all the way, then let it just touch the choke cam (choke in open position) and then give it a 1/4 turn then forget it. I set the control screw at 2.5 turns, tried three turns. I set the bypass screw in the same spot. Started it up, runs and idles fine until warmed up and then wont idle at all. If i choke it with my hand it will run. I have backed out the bypass screw nearly all the way and tried every spot between there and in all the way with little or no change. By backing out the volume control screw to somewhere way more than three turns it can almost idle. Well after much head scratching and hair yanking i find out the 34 pict 3 and the 009 dont like each other. Before laying out money to replace one or both parts is there a way to make them sort of be happy together?
I did come across this web site. Im not sure if this is a viable option or not, but I am willing to try it if anyone is familiar with the technique.
Registered: 1114783879 Posts: 236
Reply with quote #2
Your right about the two not getting along.
The link you provided is a fix that has been kicked around for quite a while and some people swear by it. I'd be worried about that chunk of solder eventually coming loose and fouling the carb. My thought is: If is such a good fix why hasn't anyone just made a throttle plate with out the hole to sell to everyone who has a 009. (just my opinion) One thing you may try is timing the dist correctly first. For this you need a timing light and a degree pulley. a tachometer helps as well. First make sure you valves are adjusted properly and that you have no vacum leaks. You should have the engine running and the timing on a 009 should be set at 28-30 degrees BTDC at 3000rpm's the timing at idle will fall where ever it does and should be fine. This can affect your idle situation but it may not solve it. Ideally if you are going to run a 34pict3 you should be running a vacum advance distributor like the SVDA these work very well with this carb and even dual or progressive carbs as well. Here is a link to the SVDA http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=IGD0001&cartid= __________________ http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/
Registered: 1187532285 Posts: 319
Reply with quote #3
One last place to look at with your 34 PICT 3. Pull of the carb and look into the venturi from the bottom. In the wall of the venturi you will see a series of double holes. The hole in the butterfly plate must be on the same side of the venturi as the holes. This plate
can be installed backwards during a rebuild and will fit quite nicely but with the plate in in this fashion, the bottom two holes which provide the gas at idle will be covered or partly covered. The gas will not come out right and will not mix with the incoming idle air ! Use some super fine wire to poke through the holes in the walls of the venturi to make sure that gas can come out of the holes. This could help your cause. The primary problem with the mix of the 34 PICT 3 and the 009 is not as much the idle it is the nuisance hesitation you get when you pull away from a stop. I cured my idle problems using the above, BUT I never got rid of the hesitation until I turfed both the carb and the distributor and bought a new 34 PICT 3 and the SVDA. After that, all has been sweetness and light.
Registered: 1193527933 Posts: 52
Reply with quote #4
The one thing you might want check is the cut off valve on your carb. This is an electromagnetic shut off that stops your engine from running on after it is turned off. I have had mine stick and a friend had his come loose and lost the ground. You can find the cut off valve under the bypass adjustment. There should be a wire on this and if you turn your key on and go to the back and pull the wire off and put it back on. you should hear a click. If not it may be stuck, or lost its ground.
Registered: 1214227624 Posts: 507
Reply with quote #5
First everything that the others on here have said is valid for repairing you problem (throttle plate, timing and cutoff valve) But from reading your original post, to me it does not sound like you are tuning the carb correctly in the first place. My Bentley manual is in the shop right now so I can't plagiarize it and copy the tune up instructions
but VW was specific on the correct procedure for setting the Pict 3 carb. Now as for myself with the 009 and the 34 Pict 3 carb I have always had problems with the lag time when you mash the throttle before you get a response from the carb (flat spot) but messing with the timing has normally made it liveable, even if not completely remedying the problem, but I have never had a problem with the engine actually idling that could not be traced back to vacuum leaks, the above mentioned items, or the carb itself was not tuned correctly. And I must admit that other than vacuum leaks very of the time it was not following the Bentley manual in setting up the carb. One thing I can truly advise is most if you don't have one for your year car as is truly is the best $35.00 to $40.00 you will then get one ever spend on your VW. Olspeed __________________ 66 Ghia, "Dexter" 76 flat window Beetle
It's not a Car it's a VolksWagon!
Registered: 1257461958 Posts: 6
Reply with quote #6
thanks everyone for input. I gave up and bought a new carb. Put it on out of the box. And voila!! runs and idles like a new car!! I am going to replace the 009 dist. with an electronic ignition svda.
I am not sure what is wrong the original carb. But now I can take my time and look at it. I am fairly certain i followed the steps in setting it up per Bently and every other site I could find.
Right now Im just glad the new carb works!
Registered: 1391187451 Posts: 1
Reply with quote #7
I know this is a very old thread but it still ranks well on Google and helped me out, so I thought I'd post my experience here in case in can still help someone else too.
I had the same idling problems, basically the engine cut out whenever the car stopped at lights, cross-roads, etc. making it very frustrating to drive. Fiddling around with screws to try to set the idling speed as per manual directions did nothing to help and then I noticed the famous VW electro-magnetic valve in the side of the carb was a little loose and could in fact be pulled out without having to unscrew it. On closer examination it looked like the thread either on the valve or carb or both were damaged. I checked the valve was working by switching on the ignition (engine not running) and disconnecting and reconnecting the valve power cable. Sometimes it made a click and sometimes it didn't, but I was pretty sure the valve was working fine, it just wasn't always making the ground connection as it was lose (I'm still not sure exactly where the ground contact is made, but I think it is between the thread of the valve and the body of the carb which is presumably grounded itself). I thought that if the carb thread was damaged then even a new valve with a new thread probably wouldn't solve the problem. I didn't have the money to buy a new carb (with new thread) so tried a couple of ways of "fixing" the thread to make the valve fit snug again. First I wrapped a strip of aluminium foil around the thread of the valve and screwed it in carefully, although I was concerned little bits of the foil may tear off and get stuck in the carb, so was extremely careful. The valve fitted much better, but did not work at all. I think this was because the foil was in effect insulating the thread and preventing it from making a ground connection altogether (aluminium doesn't conduct electricity well). Next I tried packing it with some fine copper cable (which conducts much better of course), but this was almost impossible to do and small bits of cable were almost certainly going to get stuck in the carb. Not a good plan. Finally, I tried with a small sliver of aluminium can. This has the advantage of being thicker than foil, so unlikely to break and get stuck in the carb, and also I could slide it down just one side of the thread, not wrap it right round. This allows the thread still to make a ground contact on one side while successfully packing it out and making it fit snuggly. To my joy, with a bit of fiddling, this last solution worked! I'm now checking it from time to time to make sure it doesn't work lose again and that the heat doesn't cause the slither of aluminium to deteriorate, but so far a so good. Try this "bodge" solution at your own risk as there's always a danger something might get stuck in the carb, but it my case it was a risk worth taking and a lot cheaper and quicker than a new carb!